You have been in Germany for a year or two. The Deutschlandticket does most of what you need, but that weekend trip to the Black Forest, the IKEA run, the occasional drive to Strasbourg — the absence of a car keeps getting in the way. So you start looking. And within a week, you run into eVB, TÜV, Schwacke, Zulassungsbescheinigung Teil II, Kfz-Steuer, Gewährleistung, Ballonfinanzierung. Half of it is in German. The other half appears to require a law degree.
Buying a car in Germany is not hard. It is sequential. Every step depends on the previous one, and the whole system refuses to skip ahead. Insurance before registration. Registration before driving. TÜV before transfer. Show up at the Zulassungsstelle missing one document, and you are rebooking an appointment three weeks out. I have watched it happen.
This guide walks through the full process — what to buy, where to buy, how to finance, how to insure, how to register, and what it actually costs over a year. Every number is sourced. Every German term is explained at first mention. If you are ready to stop navigating the U-Bahn with IKEA bags, this is the document you want open in a tab.
Can a foreigner actually buy a car in Germany?
Yes. The gating question people assume matters — citizenship, nationality, length of stay — mostly does not. What matters is two documents: a valid residence address registered at your local Bürgeramt (the Meldebescheinigung you received after your Anmeldung), and, for non-EU citizens, a valid residence permit (Aufenthaltstitel).
According to the Kraftfahrt-Bundesamt (KBA), Germany recorded 2,857,591 new passenger car registrations in 2025 — a 1.4% increase over 2024. A meaningful share of those went to non-German residents. Dealerships in Berlin, Munich, Hamburg, and Frankfurt process foreign buyers constantly. Some have English-speaking staff. Most can run you through the paperwork without drama, provided you arrive prepared.
The piece that catches people out is timing. You cannot register a car before you have insurance. You cannot drive the car before you have registered it. And you cannot do any of it before your Anmeldung is complete. If you just moved, sort your address registration first. Everything else stacks on top of it.
New, used, or Jahreswagen — which one fits your situation?
The three buying categories in Germany map roughly onto three profiles. New (Neuwagen) is what a dealership delivers fresh from the factory with full manufacturer warranty and current-spec tech. Used (Gebrauchtwagen) is everything from a two-year-old ex-rental to a decade-old Opel with 180,000 km on the clock. Jahreswagen sits in the middle — a vehicle roughly one year old, usually a former company car, demonstration vehicle, or employee lease return.
The price gap matters. Destatis reports the average new passenger car in Germany costs around €37,000 in 2026. A Jahreswagen of the same model typically runs 15–30% below that, with most of the factory warranty still intact. A three-year-old used car of the same family can sit at half the new price. If you intend to keep the car five years and drive it hard, the used market rewards you. If you want a predictable monthly cost and guaranteed support, new or Jahreswagen makes more sense.
KEY GERMAN TERM
Jahreswagen — literally "year-car." A vehicle approximately one year old, often a manufacturer employee purchase or ex-demonstration unit. Comes with remaining factory warranty, complete service book, and typically 15–30% off the new-car price. One of the most advantageous categories for buyers who want near-new quality without the first-year depreciation hit.
One profile to watch: short-stay expats. If your visa is tied to a two-year contract, leasing (or a long-term rental through services like FINN or ViveLaCar) often beats buying. You avoid the resale problem when you leave the country — which, if you are not a resident when you try to sell, becomes genuinely painful.
What the German car market actually looks like right now
Germany runs 61.1 million motorised vehicles on its roads as of January 2025, per KBA Fahrzeugbestand data. The passenger-car parc — the total population of registered cars — sits at roughly 49.3 million. The average car on a German road is now 10.6 years old, the highest figure on record. People are keeping their cars longer. That has consequences for both used pricing and parts availability.
The new-car market told a different story in 2025. Battery-electric vehicle sales jumped 43.2% year-on-year to 545,142 units, taking 19.1% of all new registrations. Petrol sales dropped 21.6% to roughly 27% market share. Diesel contracted to 13.8%. Hybrid and plug-in hybrid registrations rose sharply, with hybrids alone taking 39.5% of new registrations — a record. The German new-car buyer in 2026 is, increasingly, not buying a pure combustion car.
| Powertrain | Market share 2025 | vs 2024 |
|---|---|---|
| Hybrid (incl. PHEV) | 39.5% | +19% |
| Petrol | 27.2% | −21.6% |
| Battery electric (BEV) | 19.1% | +43.2% |
| Diesel | 13.8% | −18.3% |
Source: Kraftfahrt-Bundesamt (KBA), 2025 annual registration data.
Why this matters when you are buying: the used market is flooded with petrol and diesel inventory that new-car buyers no longer want. If you are shopping for a 2020–2022 Golf, Corolla, or Focus, the supply is deep. If you are hunting a used EV with solid battery health, you are in a thinner pool with more competition.
Where to buy: dealer, private seller, or online platform?
Three channels dominate the German used market. Authorised dealers (Vertragshändler) sell brand-certified used cars with mandatory one-year statutory warranty (gesetzliche Gewährleistung), typically at a premium of €1,500–€3,000 over equivalent private listings. Independent dealers (freie Händler) sit in the middle — they still owe you Gewährleistung, but the vehicle range and pricing vary wildly. Private sellers advertise on major German used-car portals and sell "gekauft wie gesehen" (bought as seen), which excludes warranty entirely.
For expats without a local mechanic they trust, the dealer route removes risk at a defined cost. A Vertragshändler selling a Volkswagen Golf VIII with 45,000 km and 18 months left on the manufacturer warranty is charging you, in part, for the peace of mind that if the turbo fails in month three, it is not your problem. Private sale of the same car is cheaper — sometimes €2,500 cheaper — but if something expensive breaks, the Kaufvertrag's "as-seen" clause almost always holds up.
Online platforms sit orthogonal to all three. They are distribution channels, not sellers. You will see the same dealer listings, the same private ads, the same Jahreswagen, aggregated in one place. Filter by warranty presence, first registration date, and mileage. Check whether the listing dealer is a Vertragshändler for the brand in question — that matters for service history authenticity.
What documents do you need before you start?
The Zulassungsstelle runs on paper. Bring originals. Photocopies will be rejected. Missing one item means rebooking — and in Berlin or Munich in 2026, that means waiting 2–4 weeks for the next slot. Before you sign any Kaufvertrag, make sure you have these in hand or know where to get them fast:
- Valid passport or national ID card. Non-EU citizens additionally need a residence permit (Aufenthaltstitel).
- Meldebescheinigung — proof of registered address from your local Bürgeramt Anmeldung.
- eVB number — seven-digit electronic insurance confirmation code from your insurer.
- Zulassungsbescheinigung Teil II (vehicle title / Fahrzeugbrief) — proves ownership. Seller hands this over at purchase for used cars. For new cars, the dealer provides it.
- Zulassungsbescheinigung Teil I — vehicle logbook. Stays in the car. Transferred from seller on used purchases.
- Valid TÜV/HU certificate — required for used cars. Must not be expired.
- SEPA-Lastschriftmandat — direct debit authorisation so the Finanzamt can collect Kfz-Steuer (vehicle tax) automatically.
- Kaufvertrag — the purchase contract, signed by buyer and seller. For private purchases, use the ADAC or Automobilisto standard template.
Expect to pay €30–€70 in administrative fees at the Zulassungsstelle itself, plus another €20–€40 for licence plates at the nearby plate shop (Schilderdienst). For special plate combinations (personalised letter-number sequences), add €10 reservation fee. Budget €60–€260 total for registration depending on your city and choices, per the KBA fee schedule referenced in the most recent ADAC summary.
The seven-step process from decision to driving
This is the sequence that works. Skip a step and the next one blocks. Do it in this order:
Complete your Anmeldung
If you have not already registered your address, do this first. Every subsequent step asks for your Meldebescheinigung. Book online through your city portal. Most Bürgeramt appointments run 1–3 weeks out in 2026.
Identify and inspect the vehicle
Do a test drive. Check the VIN (Fahrzeugidentifikationsnummer) on the door frame, the windshield base, and the engine bay against the Zulassungsbescheinigung Teil II. Request the Scheckheft (service booklet) and the previous TÜV report. For used cars over €10,000, many expats book an ADAC or DEKRA pre-purchase inspection — around €110–€150 for peace of mind.
Negotiate and sign the Kaufvertrag
Germans negotiate, but less aggressively than in the US or UK. On a dealer listing, expect 3–8% flexibility. On a private listing, 5–15%. Get the Kaufvertrag in writing — include VIN, mileage at sale, all known defects, and whether Gewährleistung applies.
Secure insurance and request your eVB number
Choose your insurer and coverage level (we cover Haftpflicht vs. Teilkasko vs. Vollkasko in detail below). The insurer issues the eVB number within minutes of signup with online providers. Keep the seven-digit code — the Zulassungsstelle needs it.
Book your Zulassungsstelle appointment
Search "[your city] Kfz-Zulassungsstelle Termin" for the online booking system. In Berlin, wait times run 2–4 weeks. In smaller towns, 2–5 days. Book the moment you sign the Kaufvertrag, not after.
Order licence plates
Some Zulassungsstellen sell plates directly; most direct you to a nearby Schilderdienst. Plates cost €20–€40 per pair. You can pre-order online and pick them up the day of your appointment, or buy them from the shop next door to the registration office on the day.
Register at the Zulassungsstelle
Bring every document. Pay the fees. The clerk checks everything, stamps the plates, enters the vehicle into the German register, and hands you the Zulassungsbescheinigung Teil I. The process takes 20–40 minutes if your paperwork is clean. From that moment, you can legally drive.
The mistakes that cost expats the most money
WARNING
Signing a German Kaufvertrag you haven't fully read — especially the "gekauft wie gesehen" clause in private sales — is the single most expensive mistake expats make. That phrase waives your legal right to warranty claims on hidden defects. Never sign it without understanding what you are giving up.
Three patterns show up over and over in expat car-buying failures.
First — skipping the pre-purchase inspection on a used car above €8,000. A €130 ADAC or DEKRA check finds cam chain wear, hidden accident damage, and electrical gremlins that a test drive does not. I have seen one buyer spend €2,800 on a transmission three months after purchase because the gearbox was already failing at sale. The inspection would have flagged it.
Second — arriving at the Zulassungsstelle without your Anmeldung completed. The registration office is not the place to discover that your Meldebescheinigung is out of date. Check it the day before. If you moved within Germany, you need to re-register at your new Bürgeramt first.
Third — paying cash for large amounts without a receipt. Private sales over €2,000 should go through a SEPA bank transfer, with the Kaufvertrag signed at the meeting. Cash transactions for used cars do happen in Germany, but if anything goes wrong afterwards, you have no paper trail. A transfer leaves an auditable record of what was paid, when, and to whom.
Car insurance in Germany: what you will actually pay
Car insurance (Kfz-Versicherung) in Germany has three tiers. Haftpflicht (third-party liability) is mandatory — you cannot register a car without it. Teilkasko adds theft, fire, glass, hail, and wildlife collision coverage. Vollkasko (fully comprehensive) covers your own damage regardless of fault, plus everything Teilkasko includes.
According to the Gesamtverband der Deutschen Versicherungswirtschaft (GDV), average annual Haftpflicht premiums in 2026 run between €300 and €600 nationally. For expats without a German claims history, the starting point is higher — you begin at Schadenfreiheitsrabatt class 0 (no-claims discount bonus), which typically pushes the premium to €400–€800 for basic liability on a compact petrol car. Your actual number depends on postcode, engine size, vehicle age, and — critically — whether you can transfer a no-claims bonus from your previous country.
| Coverage | Typical annual cost | What it covers |
|---|---|---|
| Haftpflicht (liability) | €300–€800 | Damage to other people, their vehicle, and property. Legally required. |
| Teilkasko (partial) | €500–€1,100 | Haftpflicht + theft, fire, glass, hail, wildlife collision. |
| Vollkasko (full) | €900–€2,000 | Teilkasko + your own vehicle damage, regardless of fault. |
Source: GDV 2025 premium data; HUK-COBURG and Check24 quote calculators, April 2026.
The rule most expats end up following: Vollkasko for the first five years of a car's life, Teilkasko for years six to ten, Haftpflicht alone for anything older. A nine-year-old Golf worth €6,500 does not justify €1,400 a year in Vollkasko premiums. A two-year-old BMW 3 Series worth €38,000 absolutely does.
What actually happens at the Zulassungsstelle
The registration office is methodical, slightly bureaucratic, and — once you have done it once — deeply predictable. Here is what the appointment itself looks like:
- Check in. You announce yourself at the reception or ticket machine. A number gets called. The process is first-come by appointment — walk-ins are turned away in most cities.
- Document handover. You present your passport, Meldebescheinigung, Zulassungsbescheinigung Teil II, eVB number, SEPA mandate, and Kaufvertrag. The clerk enters everything into the system.
- Plate number assignment. You request a plate combination. If you pre-reserved online, confirm it. If not, the clerk offers a next-available sequence.
- Fee payment. Typically €30–€70 depending on the service. Most Zulassungsstellen accept Girocard. Many still do not accept credit cards. Bring a debit card or cash.
- Plate stamping. You walk the plates over to the Schilderdienst, they get stamped with the Stempelplakette (registration seal), and you return or have them fitted.
- Zulassungsbescheinigung Teil I handover. The clerk prints your new vehicle logbook. It goes in the glovebox. You are now legal.
TIP
Berlin, Munich, and Hamburg Zulassungsstellen frequently require Girocard or cash. Credit cards — including German credit cards — are often refused. Bring €150 in cash or make sure your debit account has a sufficient limit for the day.
TÜV/HU — what it is and why it matters at purchase
TÜV is shorthand for the Hauptuntersuchung (HU) — the main vehicle inspection every German car must pass every two years, or annually for cars over ten years old. Every car on a public road in Germany carries a Prüfplakette (inspection sticker) on its rear plate showing the month and year of next inspection. A car without a valid sticker cannot legally drive.
When you buy a used car, the seller's TÜV certificate transfers with the vehicle. Check two things: how many months remain, and what passed on the last test. A car with three weeks of TÜV left is not necessarily a bad deal — but it means you will be paying €70–€150 for a fresh inspection within a month, plus any repairs needed to pass. Factor that into the price.
A failed TÜV means the car cannot be registered until the defects are fixed. If you are buying a used car that "needs TÜV," negotiate the expected repair cost off the price and have the inspection done before you transfer ownership. Otherwise, you are buying a problem. For the full breakdown of what gets checked and common failure modes, see our dedicated TÜV inspection guide.
Financing options: Kredit, Leasing, or buy outright?
Having reviewed hundreds of expat purchase scenarios, the financing question almost always resolves the same way: if you have the cash and intend to keep the car more than three years, buy outright. Financing in Germany carries real interest (typically 4.5–7.5% for a Kredit in 2026, based on ADAC financing comparisons), and unlike the US, there is no tax deduction on consumer auto interest.
Three financing structures dominate. A Kredit (loan) through your house bank is the cleanest — you borrow, you own, you pay monthly. Leasing transfers the depreciation risk to the leaseholder but leaves you with no asset at the end. Ballonfinanzierung (balloon financing) gives low monthly payments with a large final payment — attractive on paper, dangerous if your situation changes before the balloon comes due.
EXPERT NOTE
For expats without a lengthy German Schufa (credit) record, dealer financing is harder to secure than house-bank loans. Your existing bank already has your employment data, your salary flow, and your account history — they will underwrite you faster and often at better rates than a dealership checking a thin Schufa file.
One category worth mentioning: manufacturer-subsidised leasing on new and demo vehicles. Volkswagen, Skoda, and BMW occasionally run promotions where the effective monthly cost on a Jahreswagen lease comes in below the equivalent Kredit payment, because the manufacturer is clearing inventory. These deals shift with quarterly targets. Worth checking the week you plan to buy.
What a car actually costs per year in Germany
Sticker price is the smallest number you will see. The annual running cost — Unterhaltskosten — is where German car ownership either works or does not. Here is what a typical scenario looks like for a three-year-old Volkswagen Golf VIII 1.5 eTSI, bought for €22,000, owned by a 32-year-old expat in Berlin with no German no-claims history:
| Cost category | Annual € | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Vollkasko insurance | €1,100 | SF 0, Berlin |
| Kfz-Steuer (vehicle tax) | €92 | 1.5L petrol, Euro 6 |
| Fuel (15,000 km/year) | €1,550 | 6.5 L/100km @ €1.75 |
| TÜV/HU (every 2 years) | €60 | Amortised |
| Maintenance & service | €450 | Manufacturer schedule |
| Tyres (every ~4 years) | €180 | Amortised |
| Depreciation | €2,200 | ~10%/year |
| Parking / garage | €600 | Berlin Anwohnerparken + lot |
| Total annual cost | €6,232 | €519/month |
Sources: ADAC Autokosten 2025, GDV insurance premium data, HUK-COBURG quote calculator, KBA Kfz-Steuer tables, April 2026.
That €519 per month is the number to compare against ride-sharing, rental, and Deutschlandticket alternatives. At €58 per month for unlimited regional transport across Germany, the Deutschlandticket is €461 cheaper per month than owning the Golf above. For city-centre expats, the maths often favours not owning. For anyone outside a major urban core, or doing more than 10,000 km a year, ownership wins.
Why the German used-car market is unlike anywhere else
Two structural features make German used cars different from every other market most expats come from. First: the TÜV system forces mechanical honesty. Every two years, a neutral third party (TÜV, DEKRA, KÜS, or GTÜ) inspects the car against a national standard. Cars with hidden problems fail. Cars that fail cannot drive. That filter keeps visibly-broken inventory off the used market in a way that does not exist in, say, the United States.
Second: the Schwacke List. Germany has a single, standardised, industry-accepted used-car valuation system, maintained by Schwacke (now part of EurotaxSchwacke). Insurers use it. Banks use it. Dealers use it. Private sellers use it as a reference. When a seller asks €14,500 for a 2019 Skoda Octavia 1.5 TSI with 67,000 km, you can check the Schwacke value and know within €800 whether the price is fair. That price transparency does not exist in most other countries, and it flattens the market. Fewer extreme deals, fewer extreme rip-offs.
The flip side is mileage. German drivers do long distances. A 10-year-old German car with 180,000 km is normal, not concerning — most of that distance was Autobahn highway miles at steady speed, which wears cars less than short urban runs. Applying the "high mileage is bad" instinct from other markets systematically excludes some of the best-value cars in Germany.
What your first year of ownership actually looks like
Imagine you close on a 2022 Volkswagen Golf VIII 1.5 eTSI, 38,000 km, from a Vertragshändler in Kreuzberg on 15 April 2026. Here is a realistic twelve-month timeline:
- Week 1: Kaufvertrag signed, eVB issued by your insurer, Zulassungsstelle appointment booked for 2 May. First insurance premium payment scheduled.
- Week 3: Registration complete. Plates fitted. You drive home. Finanzamt begins automatic Kfz-Steuer collection by SEPA direct debit within 4–6 weeks.
- Month 3: First service interval approaching if handover was at the recommended mileage. VW service intervals typically every 30,000 km or two years. Costs: €280–€450 depending on service scope.
- Month 6: First winter. Winter tyres required (gesetzlich) from October to Easter. If the car came on summer tyres, budget €600–€900 for a Winterräder set including alloys.
- Month 9: Insurance renewal notice arrives by mail. If your no-claims record is clean, premium drops. Switching insurers — the Versicherungswechsel — must be requested by 30 November to take effect 1 January.
- Month 12: TÜV still valid. No HU required yet — the previous sticker covers through 2028 if the Kaufvertrag was current. Annual total ownership cost lands roughly at the €6,200 mark from the earlier calculation.
Questions expats ask most often
Can I use my foreign driving licence to register a car?
Yes. Registration does not require a German driving licence. Non-EU licences are valid to drive for six months after your Anmeldung; EU licences remain valid indefinitely. Conversion to a German Führerschein is separate from vehicle registration.
Can I register a car without an Anmeldung?
No. The Zulassungsstelle requires a Meldebescheinigung from your local Bürgeramt. Without a registered address, you cannot complete vehicle registration. This is the single most common blocker for new arrivals.
How long does the registration appointment itself take?
20–40 minutes if your documents are complete. Getting the appointment in the first place takes 1–4 weeks depending on city. Book the moment you sign the Kaufvertrag.
Can I transfer my no-claims bonus from my home country?
Sometimes. Many German insurers accept documented Schadenfreiheitsrabatt transfers from EU countries and selected others (UK, Switzerland, US, Australia, Canada). You need an official letter from your previous insurer detailing years without claims. Savings on the premium can exceed €400/year.
Key takeaways
- Foreigners can buy and register cars in Germany with a valid Anmeldung and, for non-EU citizens, a residence permit.
- Sequence matters: Anmeldung → insurance (eVB number) → Kaufvertrag → Zulassungsstelle appointment → plates → registration.
- New car average in 2026 is roughly €37,000 (Destatis); Jahreswagen offers 15–30% savings with remaining warranty.
- Registration costs €30–€70 at the Zulassungsstelle plus €20–€40 for plates. Budget €60–€260 total for the registration day.
- Haftpflicht insurance runs €300–€800 annually for expats without German no-claims history; Vollkasko adds €500–€1,200 more.
- Total annual ownership cost for a typical compact runs €5,500–€7,000 — roughly €460–€580 per month all-in.
- TÜV/HU is non-negotiable: every two years for most cars, annual for cars over ten years old. Missing TÜV blocks legal driving.
- Schwacke valuations give you a neutral price reference for used cars — check before negotiating.
- Bring cash or Girocard to the Zulassungsstelle. Many offices still refuse credit cards in 2026.
- Transfer your no-claims bonus from your previous country if possible — written confirmation from your old insurer can save hundreds per year.
Related guides in this series
This pillar guide links to every spoke article in our Buying Guides cluster. Each covers one step of the process in depth:
- German Car Insurance Explained — Haftpflicht, Teilkasko, and Vollkasko compared, with 2026 premium data.
- TÜV / HU Inspection — what gets checked, what fails most often, and how to prepare.
- Zulassung Step-by-Step — the full registration process at the Zulassungsstelle.
- Schwacke List Explained — how Germany values used cars and how to read the data.
- Where to Buy — platform comparison for the German market.
- Car Financing in Germany — Kredit, Leasing, and Ballonfinanzierung compared.
- Jahreswagen, Vorführwagen, Tageszulassung — the German car category types explained.
- Total Cost of Car Ownership — 2026 Unterhaltskosten by vehicle class.
- Kfz-Steuer Explained — how Germany calculates annual vehicle tax.
Sources
- Kraftfahrt-Bundesamt (KBA) — 2025 annual registration data, Fahrzeugbestand as of 1 January 2025.
- Gesamtverband der Deutschen Versicherungswirtschaft (GDV) — 2025–2026 Haftpflicht premium statistics.
- ADAC — Autokosten 2025, Pannenstatistik 2025, pre-purchase inspection services.
- Destatis (Statistisches Bundesamt) — new passenger car average price, 2026.
- DEKRA — Gebrauchtwagenreport 2025.
- Bundesministerium für Digitales und Verkehr — Kfz-Steuer rate tables.
- VDA (Verband der Automobilindustrie) — 2025 production and export figures.
Automobilisto's editorial methodology cross-references every data point against at least two independent sources. Every German regulatory term is verified against the current version of the applicable law (StVZO, FZV, KraftStG). Last updated: April 2026.
What this guide covers
- 01Can a foreigner actually buy a car in Germany?
- 02New, used, or Jahreswagen — which one fits your situation?
- 03What the German car market actually looks like right now
- 04Where to buy: dealer, private seller, or online platform?
- 05What documents do you need before you start?
- 06The seven-step process from decision to driving
- 07The mistakes that cost expats the most money
- 08Car insurance in Germany: what you will actually pay
- 09What actually happens at the Zulassungsstelle
- 10TÜV/HU — what it is and why it matters at purchase
- 11Financing options: Kredit, Leasing, or buy outright?
- 12What a car actually costs per year in Germany
- 13Why the German used-car market is unlike anywhere else
- 14What your first year of ownership actually looks like
- 15Questions expats ask most often
- 16Key takeaways
- 17Related guides in this series
- 18Sources
- 19Frequently asked questions
Buying Guides Cluster
- Car Financing in Germany: Autokredit, Leasing, and Ballonfinanzierung Compared (2026)
- Zulassung Step-by-Step: How to Register a Car in Germany
- TÜV / HU Inspection in Germany: What Gets Checked and How to Prepare
- Total Cost of Car Ownership in Germany (2026 Data)
- Where to Buy a Used Car in Germany: The Channel Comparison
- German Car Insurance Explained: Haftpflicht, Teilkasko, and Vollkasko
- Schwacke List Explained: How Germany Values Used Cars
- Kfz-Steuer in Germany 2026: How Your Car Tax Is Actually Calculated
- German Used Car Categories: Four Labels Decoded for Expat Buyers
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